Afternoon Tea, The Mount Nelson Hotel, Cape Town

Afternoon Tea at the Mount Nelson in Cape Town is somewhat of an institution. The hotel is said to not only serve one of the greatest teas in South Africa, but one of the oldest. Since the turn of the century, the royal and the rich alike have met at the Mount Nelson to partake in this age old tradition. Today, all walks of life come together to indulge in this British tradition that sets apart the day and allows ultimate relaxation.

It was a beautiful and sunny Friday afternoon that I set out with my American counterparts to the Mount Nelson. We traveled on foot as the hotel was only a fifteen minute walk from our accommodation in center-city. The occasion was also very special because I would be meeting with a friend I went to high school with but hadn't seen for over three years! She has been studying at the University of Cape Town and we got in touch. The last time we were together, we were wearing our graduation robes and now here we were sitting down to tea in South Africa! That is the magical thing about taking tea; it brings people together.

The Mount Nelson is beautiful. Old colonial elegance set against lovely and flourishing gardens. This alone was enough, but as we were led through to our reserved seating on the terrace, I knew the afternoon would be perfect. White porcelain cups and saucers waited for us next to linen napkins and a gorgeous view of the grounds made for the perfect setting. Before long, our server Sydney came to chat with us. I want to applaud Sydney for being one of the best servers I have had to date. His knowledge and friendliness made the experience so much more memorable! I will hopefully return to meet him again one day!

The Mount Nelson is nontraditional only in that instead of the food being served on tiered stands, it is set up as a buffet with unlimited access. None of us were complaining. And the extensive tea menu with over thirty teas to choose from, and unlimited coffees and drinking chocolates were all at our disposal. And for the price of R165 (about $24) you get so much more than what you pay for.

View from the Terrace

My first tea selection was the Mount Nelson Blend. The blend is made up of Assam, Ceylon, Darjeeling, Keemun, Kenyan, Oolong, and Rose Buds. I knew it would be enjoyable from the exciting mixture alone. All tea at the Mount Nelson is served in glass, see-through Nigiro teapots. These beauties allow you to watch as your leaves unfurl and alter your boiling water. I also appreciate that each table is equipped with a time to allow for appropriate steeping. Sydney all showed us how to work the glass pots. The glass infusers stick right into the pot and there is a side plate waiting for them after steeping is complete. My first sip was perfect. No milk, no sugar and all taste, the Mount Nelson blend was true and full-bodied triumph. For any black tea lover, this should be at the top.

Mount Nelson Blend Steeping

As it was a proper afternoon tea, we decided to explore the buffet table. Although some of my friends decided to take what they pleased as they pleased, I wanted to maintain tradition in the order of sandwiches followed by scones followed by sweets. The sandwich selection was quite impressive. I munched on cucumber sandwiches, egg mayonnaise, and roast beef. I loved that all the finger sandwiches on offer with presented on your choice of brown or white bread. I chose brown for each sandwich. I also picked up a miniature quiche which was divine and I munched on a bite of a friend's mushroom pie.


As my Mount Nelson blend began to diminish, I ordered a fresh pot of tea from Sydney. This time I went for Ceylon Dimbula. A pure, unblended Ceylon with a lovely, rather oakey taste. I did add sugar to taste, but only a very small bit. This was my tea for the scones. I had one of each, a plain and a fruited, and spread with the fresh cream and apricot jam, they were splendid. These were probably the best scones I have had in South Africa yet!

Tea and Scones (and some milktart)!

Already feeling full, I took a bit of a break, but knew I wanted to sample some of the sweets on offer. Although I couldn't handle everything, I picked what was most appealing to me. I chose a miniature milk tart, a mini lamington, a mini Cape Malay koeksister, and a slice of the banana bread. All of this paired with a fresh pot of Rooibos tea made for a sweet ending to a particularly perfect Afternoon tea.

Beautiful Hibiscus Tea Steeping

We all sat and chatted, basking in the ambiance and beautiful weather as Sydney came by frequently to chat and replenish our teapots. The afternoon could not have been more perfect. Before we knew it, it was getting close to 6:00 PM and the last diners were leaving. We all said our goodbyes, but not without a picture with Sydney first.

The American Crew and Sydney

All in all, it was an afternoon tea above and beyond what you might get somewhere else, and a fraction of the price you would pay in Europe or the States. Bravo to the Mount Nelson for providing such a great experience all these years down the road.

Chai Tea, Biesmiellah Restaurant, Bo Kaap, Cape Town

Cape Town has a very interesting and diverse culture. During the Dutch occupation of South Africa, the Dutch brought slaves over from Indonesia and Malaysia who would form what is today called the "Cape Coloured" or "Cape Malay" group of people. Although the people look very similar to their Malaysian ancestors, they speak Afrikaans as their first language and their connection to Southeast Asia is only really through blood. Bo Kaap in Cape Town is the Cape Malay quarter where traditionally and to this day, Cape Malay people still make their homes. Colorful houses and Halaal restaurants line the streets.


On a Friday morning, I ventured into Bo Kaap with a friend just touring the area on foot. As we had afternoon tea planned later on that day, we didn't want to eat too much of a breakfast, so decided to grab something light at Biesmiellah Restaurant, a Cape Malay favorite in Bo Kaap. Although delicious favorites like chicken curries and bobotie lined the menu, I just wanted something simple and delicious. Cape Malay food is a mixture of Malay, Indian and African and it is reflected in the spices and flavors. I ordered a pot of chai tea and a potato wada, a deep-fried potato snack of Indian origin. My friend ordered a Cape Malay koeksister. The koeksister is a South African twisted donut, but the Cape Malay variety is a bit different. Cooked in brown sugar syrup, it is then adorned with desiccated coconut.


My chai tea came promptly, smooth and milky with just the right level of strength. Real cardamom pods and other spices were found in the pot among inspection and the tea was hot but not too hot. It was so nice to sit their sipping a local blend in the midst of Bo Kaap, taking in the magnificent amalgam of culture so vividly displayed in the people and their cuisine.

Rooibos Tea, Timbuktu Cafe, Cape Town

After an 18 hour bus ride from Johannesburg to Cape Town, I wanted to see the city, but first, I had to re-energize. Of course this, for me, means finding a nice cup of tea and a cozy place to sit down. Timbuktu Cafe, located on the upper level, nestled within Cape Town's Pan African Market ended up being the perfect spot. Despite being called "Timbuktu" the cafe serves traditional Ethiopian Fare in a relaxed and bohemian environment. As much as I do enjoy Ethiopian Coffee, I ordered a pot of rooibos tea.


The tea is served in fine china pots, with a mismatched cup and saucer, or in my case, a glass see-through teacup. My teapot was adorned with Japanese geishas and flowers. A simple, yet robust rooibos is presented with a side sugar bowl. After one sip, I knew I'd be just fine for the night ahead. As I sat sipping the earthy blend, full of naturally sweet notes, I chatted with my friends as the sun began to set over Cape Town's Long Street. A perfect welcoming.

The Little Church Tea Garden: Van Reenen, Free State, South Africa

This isn't a postcard! It's the actual landscape!

I just got back from a long weekend road trip. My friends and I rented a car and drove out to Durban, a beach city in KwaZulu-Natal. It was a great trip, indeed, but one of my favorite parts of the trip was the halfway point to our destination. Tucked into a country side town along the Drakensburg Mountains is the smallest independently owned Catholic church in the world and adjacent to it, a lovely little tea shop with one of the best views you can imagine.

The Tea Garden

The Little Church Tea Garden has a lovely standard tearoom interior, complete with a lovely cake display. On my visit it was sporting milktart, chocolate walnut, another chocolaty concoction and a plate of scones (pronounced sc-awn-s here). As beautiful as the interior is, on a warm South African summer day, nothing beats sitting out in the garden with one of the most natural and beautiful views you can imagine. I took pictures and I couldn't even believe they were real.

Inside the Tearoom

The Cake Stand

The lovely staff was very attentive and before long, I had ordered my cream tea. A pot of Ceylon tea was presented to me in a lovely silver setting and a simple white porcelain teacup. My tea was a perfect relaxing cuppa to break up the drive. Shortly after, I was presented with my scone, already dressed for me in a swirl of fresh cream and homemade jam.

Ceylon Tea with a View!

The jam was the most special part of the cream tea. When I asked her what the deep purple and berried serving was, the proprietress replied, or at least what I heard, "nache". It turns out she wasn't saying "nache" at all, but nightshade. The thick Afrikaaner accent threw me off at first! Nightshade is actually a berry endemic to the Free State. Although it grows in the UK and Australia, it is poisonous there. Here, however, it is perfectly safe to eat and produces a lovely and perfect jam for scones. The scones by the way were fresh and crumbly, just how I like them!

Handmade Scones

Nightshade Jam

I could have sat for hours looking off at the mountains and sipping my tea, but eventually, the road called. As we were leaving, a family was gathering for a wedding in the Little Church. Lovely. It was a perfect stop off in the most perfect of South African country towns. The best respite I could have asked for!

Eric, Me, and Alex

More Perfect View

Having a Cup of Tea

The thing I love about most former British colonies (my home country of the USA excluded) is that when you sit down to order a cup of tea, you really get your tea! Last week, I went out for a leisurely weekend lunch with some friends at Zoo Lake Bowls Club here in Johannesburg. I ordered my afternoon cuppa and was so delightfully presented with this:



A simple but nice tea tray complete with a silver set of teapot, creamer and sugar bowl. I take my tea with milk and sugar, and not having to ask for it is always a nice touch. It's the little things that make a tea lover happy!

Laduree, London, England

For a delightful French Tea Time, without taking the journey over to Paris, stop into French imported tea salon, Laduree, located in Harrods. Around 4 o'clock, I headed over for my tea and the place was packed. I joined the line and waited about 5 minutes before I was seated. The tearoom is lovely, in a very elegant French style. Laduree is known for its exceptional macarons and teas. I ordered a pot of their house blended ceylon and partnered it with a large pistachio macaron. The macaron is heavenly and fresh. The tea, perfect. The ceylon is fragrant and full bodied and it helps that it's served in such elegant china.

The Original Maids of Honour, Kew Gardens, England

The Original Maids of Honour is a tearoom I have wanted to visit for years. It is a historic, old tearoom located outside of London city in the quaint town of Kew, with the royal Kew Gardens, just north of Richmond. I went with the express intention of having tea on a hot summer day in 2009, but to my dismay the shop was closed. This time, while I was in London, I was not going to pass up afternoon tea at a classic place. I booked a reservation for Monday afternoon and was joined by my friend from the states, Jill, who was studying in London. We spent the afternoon having lovely conversation and so thoroughly enjoying the surrounding of Maids of Honour.


Maids of Honour is the epitome of classic British teashop complete with wooden tables, a fireplace, portraits of British royalty on the wall, a display of sweets up at the front, and a well-dressed staff. However, unlike an afternoon tea at a hotel, Maids of Honour is much more relaxed. You don’t have to dress up, you can put your elbows on the table if you please, and no one will scold you for taking a bite of your scone before your sandwich.


Jill and I came for the afternoon tea and so that’s what we ordered. Soon enough, we were brought out a silver pot of black tea with lovely bone china cups, a saucer of milk and a sugar bowl with massive sugar cubes of brown and white sugar. We sipped on our tea and waited anxiously for the three-tiered server to arrive.


And arrive it did! We started with the assortment of tea sandwiches, all the most classic ranging from cucumber, cheese, smoked salmon and egg mayonnaise, all on brown and white bread with the crusts properly cut off. The sandwiches were quite satisfactory and a welcome addition to the tea party!


As we moved down to the scones, we were pleased to find that we each received two scones, one plain and one fruited. They were served with fresh clotted cream and mini jars of Wilkin and Sons Raspberry jam. They went down a treat, and you could taste how homemade and fresh they were. Perfect.


On our sweets server, we both opted for the famous sweet that the shop is named after: The Maids of Honour. These are sort of a flaky puff pastry sweet filled with an egg custard. They were quite tasty, although I wouldn’t say they were my favorite item of the tea.


Jill and I so thoroughly enjoyed our tea and conversation, so much so that we were the last people to leave the shop! All in all it lived up to my expectations and was a wonderful experience. Not to mention, it is a much more economic tea than say, The Ritz. The next time I am in London, I would love to go back and sit at Maids of Honour with a good book and a nice pot of tea and a scone!

Miss Marple’s Tea Room, East Looe, Cornwall, England

For the best Cornish Cream Tea in the towns of Looe in Cornwall, head to Miss Marple’s on the main street. My host and family friend Avril took me for this proper and ancient tradition known throughout the world. The cream tea originated in the areas of Cornwall and Devon and in Southwest England you will see teashops and bakeries all over advertising their cream teas.


Miss Marple’s is a quaint upstairs shop with a few tables, a windowed cake stand and a lovely staff. We were there for one thing and one thing alone: cream teas! Before long, we were presented with personal pots of tea, one large scone and a two big servings of homemade jam and clotted cream. This is the best clotted cream I have ever tasted. Clotted cream is made fresh in Cornwall and Devon and so of course, you only get the freshest and best quality there. I learned that the Cornish way of eating your cream tea is to spread the jam on first and then layer that with clotted cream. I usually make it the Devon way myself, so that I can get more cream on the bottom, but seeing as I was so happily being introduced to Cornish culture, I made my scone the Cornish way.


Another thing to note is that the scones here are not the hard, crumbly scones we find in the states, but much softer and more breadlike. Avril explained to me that before scones, people made cream teas on Cornish Splits, which is a soft bread roll that goes very well with cream and jam. Because of this, I think the scones here are more closely related to splits. They were fresh and delicious. I could certainly see myself back at Miss Marple’s enjoying a pot of Assam tea and a fresh scone. And to add to it, the people are so friendly and let you linger as long as you want! A lovely place, indeed!

Forsyth's Tea Room, Edinburgh, Scotland

Forsyth’s Tea Room, on the High Street, in Edinburgh, is an amazing little hole-in-the-wall teashop singlehandedly run by the lovely Christina. On my two days in Edinburgh, I went twice, sharing a pot of tea and amazing conversation with the lady behind it all who has been baking, cleaning, and selling lovely cakes, snacks, and teas for sixteen years! In the off-season, when the shop isn’t bustling, Christina makes herself busy crocheting sugar covers, tea cosies and the like. Her shop is so homey and comfy, you won’t even realize how the time will fly with either a good book or a long talk about Scotland and the culture with Christina.



My first day in Edinburgh, I was groggy and a bit jetlagged after a six hour flight to London, a layover and then a one hour flight to Edinburgh without a wink of sleep. But to fight the time change I found myself wandering the Royal Mile and the High Street with my destination in mind: Forsyth’s. I received the loveliest welcome and Christina was very keen to learn about my American background and travels plans bringing me to South Africa. She showed me around the space, emphasizing the exposed stone walls, fresh flowers on the tables, quaint mugs of Scotland for sale (one of which I now own) and of course the goods for sale. Before I could say anything, I was presented with a lovely pot of black tea. For some reason, regardless of the quality of tea, in the UK tea just tastes better! I wasn’t in the least perturbed that the tea was coming from a tea bag, as the atmosphere and company elevated the taste tenfold! I also ordered a Scotch Pie for lunch, a meat pie filled with steak and Scottish seasonings, with a bottle of HP Sauce on the side, of course.


My second day in Edinburgh was rainy and windy and very bleak, but I promised Christina I would be back, and no rain would stop me from getting to Forsyth’s. I was warmly welcomed and despite the wide array of delicious looking cakes on selection (including a particularly attractive carrot cake), I went for a cream tea complete with a sultana studded scone, homemade jam, cream and fresh butter. It was lovely of course and sharing Christina’s company again was a welcome respite from the gloomy weather. I mentioned that I was going to the Lyceum Theatre later that night to see a production of Arthur Miller’s “A View from the Bridge” and without a moment to think, Christina jumped up and said she would wrap me up some Scottish shortbread and tea bags for my interval snack! I couldn’t have found better hospitality anywhere, and despite wanting to try some of the other tearooms in Edinburgh, I was so happy to have spent time with such a lovely woman in such a lovely little shop. Next time you are in Edinburgh, visit! You won’t be disappointed.

A Proper Cup of Tea in the UK

The Brits know how to make a cup of tea. This is evident, even on a train ride, as the attendant pushes around a trolley, making me a super delicious cup with milk, perfect in proportion. I will be leaving for South Africa in 4 days, but am still on holiday in Great Britain. I have many updates to post from tea rooms around the country, but for now, let me whet your appetite with some images of proper british cuppas! More updates to come once I'm settle in Johannesburg!

A perfect cream tea at Forsyth's Tea Room in Edinburgh

A Scottish Breakfast Pot of Tea

Dammann Freres Tea Sampler

On a recent trip to Washington DC, in an Illy Cafe where I was blasphemously sipping a cappuccino, I noticed Dammann Freres tea for sale. I of course had read about the tea, the highly regarded French company competing with France's other best known tea union, Mariage Freres. I'm a big fan of Mariage Freres teas, and I would probably go so far as to say that Mariage Freres is some of the best and finest tea in the world. However, I have only read extremely good things about Dammann Freres and I decided to give this other elite French tea purveyor a try.

I purchased the sampler, so I could try a wide variety, which comes in a very nice box. When you open it, it is almost like a fancy filing system, the black teas separated from greens and herbals by little card spacers with information on each one. The company already had points within the realm of presentation and this just added to it.

The teas that the sampler includes are:


Goût Russe: The blend ""Goût russe"" is a preciously treasured receipt with a blend of special Chinese teas. The addition of citrus fruits essential oils gives an attractive character to this blend.

Darjeeling 1st flush: This Darjeeling First Flush comes from gardens which are situated on a height of 2.000 m, in the south of the Darjeeling province. Aromatic and astringent at the same time with slight green notes in the aftertaste. This tea last tasted and delights lovers of strong and flowery Darjeeling tea.

Jardin Bleu: The blend Jardin Bleu combines Chinese unsmoked tea with rhubarb and wild strawberry flavours.

4 red fruits: A blend of China and Ceylon black teas flavoured with cherry, strawberry, raspberry and redcurrant and embellished with strawberry bit and redcurrants resulting in a fruity bouquet.

Green tea mint: The green tea mint offers a green tea leaf of Chinese Gunpowder tea, sprinkled with «Nanah» mint. To be drunk very hot and sweet: the desert tea.

Earl Grey: The Earl Grey is a traditional oriental blend of unsmoked Chinese teas. It casts a spell on all lovers of the fine bergamot from Calabria.

Breakfast: The Breakfast blend combines Ceylon, Darjeeling and Assam tea. Tea, milk: the perfect first cup for early risers.

Jasmine: This green Jasmin tea is naturally perfumed with Jasmine flowers. A tea that fits excellently to the oriental cooking.

Being a lover of black tea, I have started with the blacks and have so far sampled the Breakfast bled and the Darjeeling. As expected, the tea is amazing. I don't even want to compare it to Mariage Freres. The breakfast holds milk and sugar very well and is strong for the morning, but not astringent. The Darjeeling is so fine and delicate with aromatic notes coming from every sip. Definitely drink it as is, no sugar. I am excited to get into the more interesting blends as well. Although I usually don't love fruity teas, the combinations presented look divine!

You can find Dammann Freres tea at Illy Cafes or online directly through the website! Happy Tea Tastings!

High Afternoon Tea?!, Queen Vic, NYC

I should have been alarmed when I read the title. High Afternoon Tea. What on earth...? A new British Pub, the Queen Vic, recently opened in the East Village on 2nd Ave and 4th St. A bit of an anglophile myself, I was very surprised to pass by it a few months ago. Even more surprising to me was that, on their menu, after the bangers and mash and meat pies on offer, there was an afternoon tea. High Afternoon Tea, but I wasn't alarmed. I was excited to see this cute little British pub promising "finger sandwiches, scones with cream and jam, and cakes".

The semester ended and finals were done with. Sarah and I were ready to have a lovely afternoon tea. We decided we wanted to try somewhere new. Of course Podunk is on the top of the list, but it's important to give all of the tea spots in this city a chance. I contemplated the Crosby Street hotel that serves what looks like a very traditional and delightful tea, but then remembered the Queen Vic and at ten dollars cheaper, it seemed a good deal.


The space itself was well decorated. A small pub with photos of the Queen on the wall, Christmas decorations brightening up the dimly lit space. The only waiter/bartender in the space paid us no mind on entrance, so we seated ourselves and picked out our teas. The tea list is small, but they have three traditional British blends on hand: Typhoo, PG Tips, and Yorkshire Gold. I went for Yorkshire Gold. Sarah decided to order Earl Gray, her favorite. I went up and ordered, mentioning that the sandwiches for Sarah had to be vegetarian. The bartender/waiter seemed a bit confused when I even said afternoon tea, but here is where the journey began.



We watched as he took down two oversized china pots and two cups and saucers. Okay, I thought to myself, no worries so far. Sarah's pot was a tall China, actually used for coffee, but a little creativity is never an issue. It was when we saw him throwing teabags into the pot that we jumped a bit. The menu states "all our teas are loose leaf". The pots came over and my Yorkshire gold was loose, but Sarah had two bags floating in her pot. Luckily, she's not hard to please and we just decided to accept it. It was then, a minute later, when the waiter came over and put down an extra bag, Twinings Brand, saying "in case you want it stronger". We had a good laugh over that...but seriously, Twinings bags.



The food would be better, I told myself, trying to be positive. We waited for a while, as the bartender sat up at the bar with his friends, drinking wine and flirting with patrons. Finally we heard a bell ring and he left and reappeared shortly with sandwiches.

Neither of us said a word. We just immediately laughed out loud as soon as he left. Mini white bread sandwiches, cut up like club sandwiches with the frilled toothpicks sticking out of them lined the plate. As if we were to be watching a football game or something! I was shocked. Sarah's very small portion of vegetarian sandwiches had cucumber, tomato and onion, and the meat ones had a thick ham and orange cheese. They were pressed and warm, and didn't taste bad, but for afternoon tea, I do not want wonder bread and grilled cheese! The waiter came over again and said "this is our first time serving afternoon tea, so we are going to give you guys half off. Let us know if you need anything else to add to it."


Well...At this point I had lost hope. Sarah ordered some french fries, because, let's face it, this wasn't a real afternoon tea. I was ready to switch over to gin and tonics as soon as the pots ran out. Surprisingly, about ten minutes later, warm and homemade scones emerged from the kitchen. They were dotted with fresh dates, three on a plate. It was almost a shock to receive this after what we had gotten so far. To remind us though, that this was no real afternoon tea, canned whipped cream swirls were placed between each scone and there was no jam. No cakes ever came to follow the scones. The chips eventually came out for Sarah and they were decent.


All in all, this was a laughable experience, and I really hope this little British Pub gets its act together. If they want to tout a "high afternoon tea", they better do it right, or not serve it at all. I seldom give negative reviews, but with the service and with the food and quality, I must say I was not pleased. For the two of us, the bill came out to a total of $25. We split it in half, and sure, we saved some money, but in all honesty, I would have been willing to double what I paid to go to the Crosby St. for a real tea. I'll be surprised to learn of how the next few months changes the Queen Vic and maybe I'll go back when I return to NYC in July.

Hot Taro Milk Tea, T-Kettle, NYC

Sometimes, the only way to get through one of these bitter New York City days is to stop into one of the numerous bubble tea cafes for a hot milk tea. This past Saturday, after a two-show day, I was exhausted and needed a bit of hot comfort. I settled into T-Kettle on St. Marks, and ordered my favorite milk tea, taro, hot without tapioca. The beverage came out promptly, served in a modern glass mug. Strong taro flavoring meets with tea and milk to created a wintertime oasis in a cup. Hot milk tea: a perfect excuse to get out of the cold!

Hong Kong Style Milk Tea

A perfect breakfast accompaniment, HK Style Milk Tea is a strong black tea brewed in a long "sock-like" bag, then mixed with sugar and evaporated milk. This overflowing cup came with a the handsomely priced $3.60 breakfast special at M. Star Cafe on Division Street. A perfect way to start the day.